Johannesburg

We pulled into the station after a rough night on the train. No sleepers, so Kevin sat all night and I put my fleece blanket on the floor under the seats and lay with my feet and face under opposite seats. Amazingly I did get some sleep.

The train was very late arriving on Monday morning, but Ruth our friend met us and took us to her house. She left us getting cleaned up and went back to work, and Dave came in later after he got back. We had a wonderful evening of fellowship with them, even though we had only just met that day!

Across the Limpopo into SA

A relief to connect again. For too long we've been relying on internet cafes where we can't easily upload photos. Now using Kevin's netbook on a South African phone card, life is getting easier again.

The border crossing over the Limpopo river yesterday was long and tiring, but we made it to this Lodge in the middle of town. Most of the place is noisy and full of traffic, but this is an oasis. Even so the local music is loud and constant.

The night train from Bulawayo was less clean than the last one from Vic Falls. In fact I would rate our Tanzanian overnight as the cleanest, safest and roomiest of all. It is also the easiest border crossing, as the officials board the train on both sides. Yesterday we had to catch transport and wait in a long queue on both sides of the bridge and border.

Birdsong in Bulawayo

This morning we woke up to birdsong in the trees around our hostel. They are not bothered by all that I am concerned with. We arrived in Bulawayo on Wednesday morning and found the temperature had dropped. The views on the way in were depressing, including graveyards for both humans and trains. The city is flat, and a strong wind blows all the time, making it necessary to wear a fleece jacket and closed in shoes instead of sandles. The streets are wide and the whole place built for traffic, but sometimes strong smells make my nose sore! The power station, which looks like Battersea, dominates the main street that we use. A strange icon.

We mostly caught up with internet yesterday, though no picture uploads, and had lunch in a local Bar. We found the people extremely friendly and helpful, especially when we asked directions from them.

Today, Thursday we take another overnight train to Beitbridge on the border with South Africa. The long journey South is half complete.

Victoria Rain Falls

Watch this space. Here it is...

On Monday we went to the Falls. There are three great waterfalls on the earth; Niagra, Iguasu and Victoria. The others have a greater height or volume total, but in terms of a single falling sheet of water, Victoria takes the prize.

The canyon in front of the falls offers an amazing viewpoint from lots of different places, and the cool spray came across to fall on us. We were there until the afternoon, and had a picnic lunch in the hot shade of a fruit tree. Not sure what the fruits were, but the birds liked them. Later on we wandered back, and the sun gave us a rainbow treat in the mist above the Falls.

Back in our hostel, during the night after we had been to the Falls, the first rain fell for many months. It cooled the air, making it almost pleasant to walk around. On Tuesday evening we boarded the train on to Bulawayo, and almost boiled in our compartment as we waited for the train to set off. The night was hot, but we were well looked after by the train crew.

across from Zambia to Zimbabwe

We crossed the bridge over the Zambeze River last Sunday on foot with rucksacks on our backs; In the middle of the bridge is where the Bunge jumpers go from, and I almost was tempted. Then I remembered things aren't quite right inside me anyway, and that might just make it worse. That's my excuse, anyway.

It was a hot and steamy day, and we sweated as the photos were taken. The walk was a little longer than we expected, so after getting across the bridge, we cheated and flagged a lorry driver down. It was all I could do to get in, and Kevin had to push me up, then I didn't get a grip and nearly fell out. The driver was very welcoming, and we sat in the enormous cab as he drove to the immigration post. He showed us to the right door, where we got our visas.

A taxi took us to our accommodation; we stayed at the Victoria Falls Backpackers for two nights. That day we took it easy, then walked to the Falls the next day. I never expected to have such an experience in my lifetime. The thunder, the spray and the view of millions of gallons tipping over the edge was out of this world.

Pictures will follow, as there is no facility to upload here where we are now (Bulawayo) (later in Messina, SA, on 27 Oct, uploaded a photo of us on the bridge)

Bussing it

We wanted to go the whole way by train, but through most of Zambia it seems the track and rolling stock (did I got the terminology right, Kevin? "Yes" Editor) have not been well maintained, so either it's too slow, or leaves at midnight, or there's no security. So today we came by a high class bus to Livingstone. Air-conditioned, drinks provided, video on tap, and comfortable seats made me think I was on the UK coach trip.

Arriving in Livingstone, we asked our prospective taxi driver to take this photo, and then he brought us to a guest-house called Comfort Corner (which Kevin found on hostelbookers.com). It has: Air conditioning, en-suit facilities, spotless sheets and clean environment, all very different to what we have experienced so far. I washed out a few clothes and saw the brown water going down the plughole. A good feeling!

To Lusaka with Kevin

So far, we've been well looked after by our Lord and God! The Journey from Makambako to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia took 35 hours, and thankfully we had a sleeping compartment with good washroom facilities. At just about every stop, we saw children asking for empty bottles, so threw ours out as we were done drinking our 14 litres of Kilolo water. We drank an average of one litre every five hours. The extremes of temperature left us gasping - from cold as African cold can be when I waited to buy the ticket in Makambako, to swelteringly hot in Mbeya station. Then mostly very warm until KMP where we spent the night.

On the bus this morning to Lusaka it got gradually hotter, and now I'm sitting in a room in a backpackers hostel, wishing there was a little more air movement. However we are safe and well, and fed on village chicken with vegetables and nsima (ugali in Tanzania), a stiff maize porridge which somehow seems wonderful when I'm hungry!

Tomorrow to Livingstone, and then across the border to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. We'll do this leg on the bus as well, then back to our train rides from there onwards.